Save and his family were very warm and welcoming, it was quite humbling to see where they were living most of them sleep on the floor but they gave up their bed for me. I got to share breakfast and dinner with them in authentic Fijian style, breakfast consisted of a fresh mango from their tree and some coconut dumplings, dinner was so far out of my comfort zone that I could do nothing else but close the eyes and eat and to my surprise it was really tasty. Save took me on a trek of his local mountain where we also collected firewood for our last night where we would have a traditional Fijian party where food would be cooked in a lobo (oven underground using hot rocks). The next day we headed down to the market to pick up some items for this night, like lamb neck, chicken and veggies and these were all cooked in this traditional way. After dinner we had a traditional drinking ceremony where we would consume the national drink of Cava which is basically water mixed with a root of a plant, it sort of looks like muddy clay water and pretty much tastes like it too. Upon receiving the first cup you have to clap once and say Bula (Hello, Hi) drink it in one then clap 3 times as appreciation, the hardest thing is not pulling a ‘lemon face’ as it is going down as it really is vile, I may bring some of this back for you all to try. The locals say if you have not drunk this you have not come to Fiji, it is not alcoholic but it does have some narcotic tendencies with the locals drinking it after a hard days work to relax them, me it just made my tongue furry and then my mouth go numb……give me a beer any day! The beer here comes in two sorts, Fiji Beer or Fiji Bitter both of which are quite tasty, my first taste was when I drunk all the Fiji Beer on the flight out here, the turbulence was some of the worst and I needed a massive amount of booze to put me at ease.
Save lives 45mins from town so it was time to jump on a local bus and hit the town, the local buses are decorated in different colours and have no windows while the locals put on classic hits from Katy Perry or Shakira blaring from the bus thus I nicknamed it the Venga bus! Once on the bus I got to see what the landscape and scenery was like and it blew my mind so tropical and so green with mountains in the background, it reminded me a lot of Goa in India especially as there is quite a big Hindi community. Nadi town is quite dirty which also reminded me of India and there a lot of touts trying to coax you into their shop, they even have the people who ask your name then quickly carve it in to a wooden sculpture so you then have to buy it…….I know all too well not to fool for that old trick, they also get you into the shop and give you drinks then you feel obliged to buy their overpriced shit! The main reason I came to Nadi was to see the Swami Hindu temple, lucky for me I did not consume alcohol or meat so I was allowed in, not that would have known if I had a bacon McMuffin meal washed down with a Fiji Bitter. The temple reminded me of Joseph and his technicoloured dream coat as it was painted in all elaborate colours, almost like Elton John’s summer house.
The new friends I met in NZ then spent two weeks in Fiji were great, upon first meeting them I figured it would be hard to break into their group as they are three friends from back home but to my surprise it was the complete opposite, they
The mainland, Nadi in particular is quite boring the real Fiji is all about the 300+ islands that rest in the Pacific ocean and to explore all these you would need 6+ months and a bank balance similar to Beckhams so I choose to go to just one instead of island hoping, we choose to spend just under a week on Mana Island where the girls are easy and the boys are sleazy, well according to the song they are. As you can imagine the island was all about white sands, crystal clear Azure Ocean and gorgeous sunsets, as they say a picture tells a thousand words so start to get jealous.
There were some pitfalls to this island paradise, the hostel we stayed at was one of the worst and over priced that I have ever stayed in, simple luxuries like light bulbs and locks on doors were not present, luckily we got a great price often $20 cheaper per night than the other guests due to my couch surfing, knowing the locals has paid off. Our block had 2 showers but only one shower head between them and one lock on the door and one light bulb, if you put it all together you would have had one reasonably functioning shower, so showers in the dark were taken. The beds often had bed bugs with one couple having to boil all their belongings to rid the pesky mites, our dorm had a resident mouse minus clogs and also a puppy who had adopted a 5 year old kid (5 is said with a hint of disbelief) as his keeper however this dog was overrun with fleas and tics and when he chucked (literally) the pup out of his room it would come into our dorm crying and wailing all night and as the door to our dorm didn’t shut (surprise) sleep was a luxury that many of us did not get. Pillow cases were often stained with blood so Bear Grylls training kicked in and pillow cases were improvised from t-shirts.
This pesky kid who I was adamant was older than the 5 years old his mum and him had rehearsed, he was more like 8 spending 2 years travelling with his weird Austrian Mum, I’m quite sure a number of these years growing up were spent with a pack of wild dogs or an animal of that nature as he mainly communicated in grunts and growls! This leads me into one night that Tom decided to drink too much and upon hearing my story of the guy in Goa who became the alpha male to a pack of dogs, when drunk he tried to roam round with the flea ridden dogs mentioned above on all fours scaring off other dogs imitating the moves they made, also this night he stole 2 lemons and a phone from some French matey which was swiftly given back to him but as he couldn’t remember any of this the next morning it didn’t phase him also the person was French so it didn’t really matter. The nights were quite quiet so card games with a few beers every night but to our delight a group of fun loving girls turned up and even though me and Rob wanted to carry on our poker games we had to be social. We had three nights with the girls and to be fair I could not be bothered drinking although I did have one night where 6 long necks were drunk (equivalent of 9 pints or 15 stubbies) and in the morning I awoke to a colossal hangover and toothpaste on my toe nails, courtesy of the Irish. Bloody amateurs!
The food comes inclusive with the price and was Fijian which for the first few days was a nice novelty but soon after that ‘grace’ period it became repetitive……….fish curry, chicken bone curry, rice and cabbage every day, me and the lads from Farnborough (see previous blog) often saw mirages on the horizon coming in the form of KFC and Burger King, we spent days dreaming of mashed potato with steak and all other non-Fijian foods, in the end we were salivating more than a stray dog in a butchers shop.
There are no cash machines on the island so you need to take the money that you need but some people make trips to the main land when they run out and want to stay, the Irish guys had made two such trips and when they came round asking if we wanted anything from the mainland it gave me a twinge of the Beach staring Leo DiCaprio. One thing I did miss was the internet; a week without knowing football scores or Facebook updates was killing me!
When leaving the Mana resort we received a goodbye song and I realised at that point that the Fijian people are some of the most friendly that I have met, you get the odd few who want to sell you trinkets and stuff but in general they are generally pleased to see you, on the resort they learned all our names and continued to remember throughout the trip!
I had to sing my own goodbye song when I had to say goodbye to the Farnborough lads when they left today, it sort of went ‘Thank f*ck you’ve gone no bum this place is much better now’, I’m only kidding but since they left and I only have a few days in this part of the world so I’m in no mood to talk to people and make friends so I guess I will save it till South America.
The last 4 days I decided to venture to the Coral Coast on the south side of Viti Levu where I stayed in one of the best hostels I have ever been to. This hostel/resort was the place where they filmed the TV show ‘Love Island’ (not celebrity) and the rooms and resort were immaculate the walls of our rooms were bamboo weaving and the roofs are thatched with palm leaves, activities are organised every day where I tried the jungle trek through to the Savu Na Mate waterfall in flip flops! The trek was pretty easy as treks go and the waterfall was not spectacular as like sunsets and temples I have seen a fair few now and it generally has to be out of this world to amaze me now. After the trek I booked a body massage and true to form it was another different massage, why can’t they just be normal? This time I informed the masseuse that I have some coral stuck in my foot and to leave that part but she insisted on removing it and using jungle remedies to heal it…….I think it may be worse now so expect to hear about a trip to the hospital in Chile. The bus back to town made me realise how beautiful the coral coast is and how un-bothered the Fijians are about their commute to work, I have my mouth wide open gawping at the coast line and jungle mouthing the word WOW to the Fijian person next to me, if my commute was along a white sand beach with turquoise water with tropical jungle in the background and the sun beating down I would go to work with a smile on my face.
Where I have been travelling for quite some time now people always ask me the same question ‘Where is the best place you have been?’ To answer that is impossible it’s like asking a tramp whether he prefers Super Tenants or Special Brew so I can’t always give an answer, but if people insist I always say Vietnam.
I will leave you with this quote that sums up travelling:
“Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness.”